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July 13, 2008 08:44 AM

Categories: Tomato

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ambertape

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Joined: 07/08/2008

Hello,
 
On the second floor of my house, front side of the house I have a Linksys WRT54GL connected to Time Warner cable. The Linksys ws upgraded to the Tomato 1.19 firmware and I took of the original 2db antennas and replaced them with 9 dbi http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Brooks antennas facing downward. I set the transmission strength to 69 in as much as MaximumPc stated the highest one should go is 70 or it will heat up the components.
 
When I am upstairs, my download speed is around 6-700 Kb/sec. I would like to get the signal down to my basement because my basement is air conditioned and upstairs isnt. I have experimented with my laptop http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laptop wireless built in adapter and it picks up a signal of  36 mbps according to Netstumbler and the speed varies between 138 kb/sec to 220 kb/sec. If I disable the Atheros wireless adapter in my laptop and connect the Wi-Fire I get 188-192 KB/sec and the range is very tight as you can see. I have to play around with positioning but that seems to be what I get. They state that I am getting 36-48 mbits/sec speed. I disconnected my wiFire unit.
 
I once bought a cantenna that supposedly is rated at 12 dbi but I have no way to test it. I
connected the cantenna to my Engenius EUB-362 EXT unit and then to my laptop and their connection screen showed a strength of 21-26 db. It vaired the speed from 178-273 kb/sec and this range is all over the lot.
 
 
I would like to get up in the range of 500 kb/sec down in my basement. A friend of mine says he
will loan me his 14 or 16 dbi yagi in a few weeks but the summer is stillhere. I saw a cheap deal
on a Netgear Wireless Powerline adapters and I bought two of them and unfortunately they contribute nothing to increasing my signal strength other than what I am doing now so i will probably return them next week.  It stated that it was also a range extender but I question it because my laptop was right their unit and with it on or off I got the same results.
 
Are there any changes in the Tomato software other than what I did that will improve the Linksys
sending out a stronger signal that I could get down to my basement ?
 
Thanks
 

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Comments 1-3 of 3 | Latest Comment

July 13, 2008 8:13 PM

This is a site dedicated to the Netgear router. But if I were you I would put on the latest DD-WRT firmware on your LinkSys and adjust the power and Sensitivity Range (ACK Timing) to see if that helps.

You can also, if you have not already, play with the antennas while running net stumbler to see if you can get better transmission strengths.

Lastly, you could try an additional router in WDS mode or what I do is take a WRT54G and connect wired to my laptop and put it into bridged mode and use the power it has to connect to a far away router.

Click here to see the BC Blog Do you own a Sansa MP3 Player? Then Click here to check out the SansaCommunity!

July 14, 2008 3:37 PM

BrandonC,

I apologise asking help on this website. Somehow I came across this site and thought it was for
different manufacturers of routers. Since this website is for Netgear routers I might considering
switching to one at a later date.

I would like to ask you to explain some of your suggestions.

Do you feel that the latest firmware of DD-WRT will give me better controls over the Tomato
firmware ? Should I try it ? I was able to adjust the transmission power to 69. Is that sufficent ?

What is ACK timing and what does it do, and what might the suggested settings be ?

Can I run Netstumbler on my regular PC in as much as the router is connected to it ? If I can will
moving around the two antennas show me something ? What should I be looking for ?

Could you explain to me the following :

Lastly, you could try an additional router in WDS mode or what I do is take a WRT54G and connect
wired to my laptop and put it into bridged mode and use the power it has to connect to a far away
router. ( would it be an idea to use a Netgear router as primary router with DD-wrt FIRMWARE and
the Linksys as a secondary router also using DD-WRT firmware )

I would like to be able to use my PC upstairs and my other PC in the basement, not my laptop.

Is there a version of Netstumbler that will recognize a antenna connected to a USB lan driver ?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ambertape
 

July 14, 2008 8:29 PM

I just like DD-WRT, of course YMMV. :) I run my wireless at 70 and have no problems reaching the second story far bedroom.

The idea was to put netstumbler on your computer in the basement and then tuning your antennas on your router to get the best signal.
But, using an USB lan driver I don't think you can.
There might be something included in the USB software that could read signal strength. Might want to check that.

ACK timiming...



Adjusts the ACK timing in Atheros typical way based on the maximum distance in meters:

    * 0 disables ACK timing completely
    * 1 - 999999 adjusts ACK timing

The default is 2000 meters.

When a packet is sent out from the router, it waits for an "ACKnowledgement" frame from the other end. The router will wait for a response until a certain amount of time has elapsed, called the "ACK timeout" (or "window").

Conventional wisdom holds that should be set to the maximum distance in meters x 2 (doubled to account for round-trip). For example, if you roam with your laptop up to 50 meters from your AP, the setting would be 100.

Under nominal conditions (obstructions, power limitations, in-band interference, etc), the usable range of 802.11b/g is perhaps less than 100 meters, so it might seem that this setting should never exceed 200. However, if using a directional antenna that boosts range, timing needs would increase. Maximum theoretical ACK timeouts are approximately 744µs (11 km) for 802.11b, and 372µs (55 km) for 802.11g. There have been reports of experimental, assisted WiFi connections in excess of 40 kilometers plus.

Another use for ACK might be for restricting the distance at which people can connect. This could be useful for WDS access points or for minimizing the zone of connectivity.

Keep in mind, the higher the ACK timing, the lower the throughput will be. If set too high, packets could be lost as the router waits for the ACK window to timeout. Conversely, if ACK is set too low, the window will expire too soon and returning packets could be dropped, also lowering throughput.


 WDS:


WDS (Wireless Distribution Service) creates a wireless backbone link between multiple access points that are part of the same wireless network. This allows a wireless network to be expanded using multiple access points without the need for a wired backbone to link them, as is traditionally required. The WDS-enabled access points can accept wireless clients (e.g. wireless laptop users) just as traditional APs would.

Also take note of the fact that all repeaters, including this WDS Repeater mode, will sacrifice half of the bandwidth available from the primary router for clients wirelessly connected to the repeater. This is a result of the repeater taking turns talking to not just one partner, but to two, and having to relay the traffic between them. As long as your bandwidth requirements are within this halved bandwidth amount there will be little or no reduction in "speed".


But my recommendation is to use a wireless bridge.


Wireless Bridging is used to connect two LAN segments via a wireless link. The two segments will be in the same subnet and look like two Ethernet switches connected by a cable to all computers on the subnet. Since the computers are on the same subnet, broadcasts will reach all machines, allowing DHCP clients in one segment to get their addresses from a DHCP server in a different segment. You could use a Wireless Bridge to transparently connect computer(s) in one room to computer(s) in a different room when you could not, or did not want to run an Ethernet cable between the rooms. Contrast this with Client Mode Wireless, where the local wireless device running DD-WRT connects to the remote router as a client, creating two separate subnets. Since the computers within the different subnets cannot see each other directly, this requires the enabling of NAT between the wireless and the wired ports, and setting up port forwarding for the computers behind the local wireless device. Segments connected via Client Mode Wireless cannot share a DHCP server.


I use 2 modified WRT54G, running DD-WRT and put one into bridged mode. Connect it wired to the desktop and then it connects wirelessly to the other router. Gets me great speeds and distance.

Click here to see the BC Blog Do you own a Sansa MP3 Player? Then Click here to check out the SansaCommunity!

Discussion:    Add a Comment | Comments 1-3 of 3 | Latest Comment

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